The Gentle Giants
After the slow, hard process of losing our dad last year, my grandpa decided to send my sister and I along with our husbands on a trip to Baja, Mexico. Many years ago, he traveled down to San Ignacio Lagoon to see the grey whales and thought it would be a trip of a lifetime for us.
Due to the remoteness of the lagoon, it took a full day of travel to arrive at our destination. We began the journey in San Diego where we met a guide and crossed the border. In a small bus we traveled along the coastline to Ensenada where we arrived at a Mexican military base. We boarded a small 12 passenger plane and flew over the rugged landscape for the next two and half hours. Once we landed on a dirt runaway, we loaded up into an old school bus from North Dakota and continued on a faint dirt road, arriving at Campo Cortez.
The best way to describe the eco-camp is rustic with exceptional views. Each cabin consisted of two twin beds with sleeping bags and solar panels for electricity. There were a few hesitations from some of our group members but once we arrived and saw the cleanliness of the accommodations we were all ecstatic to be there. Because it was an eco-camp and fresh water is a luxury in the desert, they recommended showering every other day. For the two of us living in a van, this was a welcome luxury! We definitely didn’t suffer from starvation with home cooked meals and fresh tortillas every day.
For three days, we went on six whale watching tours. Each panga (a small fishing boat) consisted of eight to ten individuals with a guide allowing us plenty of opportunity to learn about these massive creatures. The grey whales average 90,000 pounds and can be as long as 45ft as an adult. The calves are born around 2,000 pounds and continue to fatten up as they drink their mothers milk which is over 50% fat. The lagoons provide an excellent area for birthing and mating attracting the whales each year. The waters in this region consist of a higher concentration of salt water allowing the newborns to float more easily before they fully know how to swim.
While the mammals are in the lagoons, the mothers are teaching their babies how to survive in the wild while the males are looking for a special partner to mate with. Due to the lack of food in the lagoons, the whales are required to head to the arctic north to spend their summers consuming enough calories to make the trip once again. With changes in the climate, the distance to find food has increased significantly putting them at a higher risk of not surviving the journey. Once they have increased their body mass, they make the long journey once again to Baja, Mexico for mating and birthing season. They will make this trip every year for the rest of their lives. As one of our guides said, “These grey whales are Mexican and no wall can or will stop them.”
Seeing an animal in their true habitat is priceless. While I have been on other safaris, nothing is quite like seeing the grey whales. These gentle giants are curious and social creatures who seek human interaction. As they approached the panga in search of a head scratch, I was stunned by how massive they are. What a surreal experience reaching my hand into the water to pet a 90,000 pound mammal while she pushes her calf towards us.
Putting into words the adventure of seeing these whales is difficult. The experience of being surrounded by massive whales is one I won’t soon forget. I felt a connection to them and the interactions with these gentle giants brought tears to my eyes.
I may have never gone to San Ignacio Lagoon to see these intelligent, emotional creatures if it weren’t for my grandpa but you can bet your bottom dollar I will be back.
